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Bloat hakkinda yazilmis bir makalenin cevirisi ve orjinali

Başlığı 'Tatlı Su Hastalık Tedavi Portalı' kategorisinde metinemre tarafından 30 Eylül 2009 başlatılmıştır.

  1. metinemre

    metinemre

    Mesajlar:
    10
    Muhtemelen Tropheus beslerken karsilasabilecegibiz en buyuk problemdir. Er veya gec bir gun bloatla tanisirsiniz.
    Hazir olmalisiniz.

    Neyin sebep verdigi belirlenememistir(makale 2003 yilinda yazilmis)
    Bazilari parazit, bazilari bakteri, virus, ya da beslenmeden kaynaklandigini soylerler.
    Bazilarida bunun baligin barsaklarinda hep oldugunu, sayisi asiri artinca ya da bagisiklik azalinca bloat`a neden oldugunu soyler. Tetikleyiciler, kotu beslenme, kotu su sartlari, baliklarin tasinmasi esnasinda olan veya yeni eklenen baliklardan kaynaklanan stresler vs.

    Bazi Tropheuslarin cok kotu su sartlarinda, yetersiz kosullarda beslendigini, yememeleri gereken seyleri yedigini ve yine de hasta olmadiklarini gordum. Ancak gereken kosullarda beslerseniz bloat olma ihtimalini oldukca azaltirsiniz.

    Kendi tecrubelerime gore, Tropheuslar ciftlesme cagina geldiklerinde, ciftlesmeden kaynaklanan agressiflikten kaynaklanan, belki hormonlar yuzunden olan bloat tecrubeleri yasadim.

    Tropheus golde alg yiyerek ve surekli kaziyarak beslenir. Midelerinde yapilan analizlerde bitkisel/sebze disinda diger seylere de rastlanmistir.

    Bloat`a kesinlikle uygulanan diyet sebep oluyor denemez.
    Akvaryumda dogan ve hazir yemlerle beslenen baliklar bloat`a yakalanmazken, vahsi yakalanmis ve akvaryuma konan baliklar, beslenmeleri degistigi icin bloata yakalanmalari cok dogaldir. Bu yuzden beslenme ana sebep denemez ama etkileyici bir faktordur denebilir.

    Bir suru akvaryumda dogan buyuyen kolonim oldu ve bunlar bloat`a hic yakalanmadi. Ancak akvaryum degisikligi, yeni eklenen baliklar, agresyon vs`den kaynaklanan stres tecrubeleri oldu.

    Bloat`a yakalanan butun Tropheuslar uzun seyahatler yasayan baliklardi. Almanya`dan Sdney`e oradan Perth`e. Seyahat mi cok stresliydi yoksa seyahatten once ac birakilmalari mi bloat`a sebep oldu? Merak ettigim bloat tecrube eden diger hobicilerin baliklarini ac birakip birakmadiklari? Haftada bir gun ac birakmak cok duyulan bir yaklasim. Ben Tropheus`larimi ac birakmiyorum. Bazen hafif ve az yemek veriyorum. Ben evde degilsem vs bazen ogun atliyorlar. Eger barsaklarindaki bakterinin sayisinin az tutulmasi icin surekli yemege ihtiyaclari varsa ac birakmak bu bakterinin sayisinin artmasini sagliyor olabilir. Ve daha sonra strese sebep olan herhangi birsey baligin bloat`a yakalanmasini saglayabilir.

    Tropheus bloat semptomlari:
    Bunlardan birkac tanesini ayni anda gozlemliyorsaniz basiniz dertte olabilir.

    1-Yemi tukurmek: eger her yemlemede balik yemi alip tukuruyorsa problem var. bazen yutamadigi icin tukurur ama yemi eninde sonunda yer

    2-hic yememek: disi baliklar agizlarinda yumurta varsa eskisi gibi yemezler ancak yine de kucuk parcalar alirlar

    3-ince beyaz ipliksi diski: alarm! (beyaz diski her zaman bloat demek degildir bazen ilaca bagli beyaz kalin diskilama gorunur)
    4-Geri cekilme - saklanma: dayak yiyen baliklar ya da cok zorlanan disiler bazen saklanirlar ama yemlemede mutlaka ortaya cikar yemeye calisirlar.
    5-koyu renk
    6-tepinmek-sallanmak
    7-nesesiz-kaygisiz olmak: bazen yukarda su seviyesine ic filtreye yakin yerde bazen akvaryum tabaninda oturmak seklinde.


    Yukarda yazanlarin hicbirisi bloat sebebi olmayabilir de, Bu yuzden Tropheus bloat terimini pek sevmem. Bazi durumlarda bloat olur(burada hastaliktan degil aslinda bloat yani sismeden bahsediyor) ANcak balik bloat olmussa(yani sismisse) genelde cok gectir.

    Eger tedaviye balik yemden kesildigi anda baslarsaniz Muhtemelen genelde tedavi etmekte basarili olursunuz. Ben bazen 7. semptom`u gosterdikleri zamanda bile onlari kurtardim.


    En iyi Tropheus bakimi, baliklarinizi surekli gozlemlemektir. Her beslenmelerinde onlari izleyin. Belirtiler cok kolay gozden kacabilir o yuzden surekli gozlem altinda tutmak en iyisidir. Gozden kacan takip edilmeyen durumlarda baliklarinizi cok kolay kaybedebilirsiniz. AKvaryuma yem atip gitmeyin yerken onlari tek tek gozlemleyin. (otomatik yemleme makinesini sadece uzun sure evde olmayacaginiz zaman ya da siz ise gittiginizde yem verecek birisi yoksa kullanin)



    Bloat tedavi etmek


    Tedavi elinizde hangi ilac olduguna bagli olur.

    Tedaviyi nasil yapacaginiza karar vermek size kalmis, Isterseniz hasta baligi hastane tankina ayirip tedavi edersiniz (ki bu ilac kullanimini azaltir ve maliyeti dusurur) ya da butun tanki tedavi edersiniz ki cogu hastalik gibi bloat da bulasici oldugu icin er veya gec baska baliklar da hastalanacaktir. Kullanacaginiz ilacin yan etkisi var mi bilmelisiniz.


    Kullanabileceginiz ilaclar Metronidazole(flagyl 500mg tablet ), Furan 2 ya da clout olacaktir

    Benim stratejim

    Genelde clout ile iyi sonuclar aldim. Ve genelde butun koloniyi ayni anda tedavi ettim. Eger Yanit almadiysam metronidazole / furan 2 kombine tedavi uyguladim.
    Clout tedavisi

    karbon filtrenizi cikarin
    Dissolve the Clout tablets in tank water in a disposable container.
    1 tablet 40 litre icin
    Gunluk tedavi yapin ertesi gun %30 su degistirin. % gunluk tedavi uygulayin
    Eger iyilesmediyse 2 gun ara verip tekrar uygulayin
    Ben balik yiyene kadar tedavi ederim bazen 1-2 gunde iyilesir
    tedavi bitince %30 su degistirin
    BAzi insanlar clout filtrenizdeki bakterileri oldurur diyor ama ben buna sahit olmadim( ben bu tezin karsisindayim clout cok kullandim ve anatankda kullanildigi zaman tedavi bitince tekrar bakteri kullanmanizi tavsiye ederim ayrica clout ph dusurur o yuzden tedavi ederken arada ph olcun ve gerekirse yukseltin " metin emre"

    Metronizadole tedavisi

    40litre icin 250mg
    hergun tedavi edin (bildigim kadariyla suda flagyl`in etkisi 8 saat max)
    iyilesmezse 3 gun ara verip tekrar tedavi edin
    6 dan fazla tedavi yapmamak en iyisidir.
    ben genelde balik yem yiyene kadar tedavi ederim bazen 1-2 ginde iyilesir
    her 3 gunluk tedaviden sonra %30 su degistirin
    Metronidazole filtredeki bakterilerinize zararsizdir.
    Furan-2 tedavisi

    karbonu cikarin tedaviyi tanka uygulayin
    1 poset 40 litre
    4 gun boyunca gunluk tedavi yapin her yeni gunde %30 su degistirin.
    8 den fazla tedavi uygulamayin
    Bejn balik yiyene kadar tedavi ederim. Tedavi bitince %30 su degistirin,
    Furan-2 filtredeki bakterilere zarar vermez
    Kombine tedavi

    Furan 2 ve metronidazole`u beraber kullandim ve HEr gun %30 su degisikligi yaparak iyi sonuc aldim.



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    ORJINALI


    Tropheus Bloat
    Probably the biggest issue/problem you will encounter with keeping Tropheus is bloat, or as it has become known on the Cichlid-forum.com, Tropheus Trouble – chances are it will hit your Tropheus one day.

    And you will need to be ready for it.

    It is still unclear exactly what it is and what causes it.

    Some say it is a parasite, some say a bacteria, some a virus, some suspect it is a dietary deficiency.

    Some say that is always resident in the fish and something causes either an explosion in the bacteria population or a lowering of resistance to it. The trigger for it has variably been attributed to poor diet, poor water quality, stress from travel or new tankmates etc.

    Admittedly I have seen Tropheus Bloat caused by poor water quality or a poor feeding regime. Conversely I have seen Tropheus fed everything they (theoretically) shouldn’t be fed and still thrive. I have seen them live and breed in fairly poor water quality (eg, high nitrates). But, overall, if you maintain good water quality and a good feeding regime you will lessen the likelihood of falling foul to Tropheus Bloat.

    In my own experience I have had Tropheus Bloat when some of my Tropheus hit serious spawning age – whether the problem is due to hormones, or increased aggression around spawning time, it is unclear to me.

    Tropheus feed on algae/aufwuchs in the lake. They are constantly grazing. It seems reasonable to assume that they are ingesting other food besides vegetable matter. And, apparently, analysis of stomach contents confirms this.

    Tropheus Bloat almost invariably seems to be triggered by some sort of stress: travel, new tankmates, poor water quality, sexual maturing etc. But successful treatment of Tropheus bloat is via medication – are we treating an explosion of existing bacteria that the Tropheus immune system cannot handle?

    There is some thought that the underlying cause of bloat is a vitamin or mineral deficiency.

    Case for a dietary deficiency:

    We cant possibly simulate exactly the dietary intake that a Tropheus may receive in the lake, therefore in an aquarium situation we could easily be leaving out an important part of their diet.

    Case against dietary deficiency:

    I believe wildcaught Tropheus when first held in an aquarium situation have a higher incidence of Tropheus Bloat than aquarium bred Tropheus. Presumably they have been getting the diet we are so keen to emulate? But they still fall prone to Tropheus Bloat.

    So I think it is unlikely to be caused by diet, but diet could be a contributing factor.

    I have had many colonies of tank raised Tropheus that have never had an episode of Tropheus Bloat. Yet they have been subject to the stresses of tank changes, colony merges, puberty and aggression.

    All of the Tropheus that I have had Tropheus Bloat with have had substantial travel involved. For example, Germany to Sydney to Perth etc. It might be the travel was just too stressful? Or was it the fasting before the travel?

    I would be curious to know if the hobbyists who have had Tropheus Bloat also fast their Tropheus? (There are quite a few recommendations of fasting one day per week).

    I don’t intentionally fast my Tropheus. I might give them lighter feeds occasionally, or they might miss out on one of their feeds during the day if I am not around. If they constantly need food in their gut to maintain the bacteria to break down the food, and we fast them one day a week, could that possibly cause a hiccup in the bacteria levels? And then some other sort of stress triggers a bacteria/parasite explosion? I think it would be fair to say that the transporters of Tropheus are fasting the fish for a few days before shipping.

    Tropheus Bloat is a problem still taxing Tropheus keepers around the world. My observations here are just that – observations based on my limited experience. Hopefully one day by us all contributing to this debate we can resolve it.

    Symptoms of Tropheus Bloat (often in this order)

    If you notice any one of these symptoms you may have a problem.

    1. Spitting food *
    2. Not eating at all **
    3. Stringy white faeces (like fine cotton)
    4. Withdrawing/Hiding ***
    5. Darkening of colour
    6. Tipping/Swaying
    7. Listless ****
    * Spitting food (maybe just being a guts, but usually they will come back for more if that is the case). If the same fish spits food at the next feeding, and isn’t eating any, then you have a problem.

    ** Not eating at all – holding females will usually eat as best they can.

    *** Fish being harassed will withdraw and hide but will usually come out to eat

    **** Listless – the fish cant even be bothered to hide any more, and is probably just sitting on the bottom or near the top. Sometimes they take up residence near the filter intake – I suspect to assist water flow through their gills.

    NB: None of the symptoms listed include actual bloating – which is why I don’t like the term Tropheus Bloat. In some cases, however , bloating may occur - but by then it is usually well and truly too late.

    If you start treatment no latter than when the fish have stopped eating you will invariably be quickly successful. After that it is touch and go. But take heart I have had them come back from the dead at #7 listless.

    The best Tropheus Care involves observing your fish – a joy with Tropheus anyhow. But watch them at every feed. The symptoms are very easy to miss and can progress to death very quickly (a matter of a few days). It seems that the problem is contagious in some manner, but confusingly it seems in a mixed species tank the bloat may, on occasions, only affect one species and not another.

    Treating Tropheus Bloat
    Your treatment regime may depend on what medication is readily available to you.

    A decision you will have to make is whether to treat the whole colony/tank or just the sick individual(s). Removing the sick fish to a hospital tank can make the treatment easier and cheaper (smaller tank equals less medication). But since Tropheus Bloat can easily snowball treating the whole colony can mean pre-empting problems with other fish. If your Tropheus are in a community tank you will need to know if your chosen medication will have any adverse affects on those species.

    From reading and hearing other’s experience Metronidazole seems to be a most effective treatment. Where I live however this is only available via prescription or from veterinarians so I have opted for a more readily available medication. I use Clout, from which I have had good results. Both of these are anti-parasitic. Furan has been used with good effect in bloat cases and is an antibiotic.

    My strategy

    I usually use Clout with good results. I usually treat the whole colony. If the sick fish don’t respond to treatment in the colony tank I remove them to individual hospital tanks and use the combined Metronidazole/Furan-2 treatment.

    Clout Regime

    Don’t treat scaleless fish, bottom feeders, or invertebrates.
    Take any carbon out of the filters first.
    Dissolve the Clout tablets in tank water in a disposable container.
    One tablet per 38 litres (10 gallons).
    Treat daily, preceded by a 30% water change each time. Don’t treat for more than 5 days.
    If the problem persists, take a 2 days break from treatment and start again.
    I treat until all the fish are eating. Sometimes you only need to treat for one or two days.
    At end of treatment do a 30% water change
    Some people claim Clout kills your bacteria in your filters but I have found no evidence for this and promotional advertising says it doesn’t.

    Warning: Clout will turn your tank's silicone blue.
    Metronidazole Regime

    Don’t treat invertebrates.
    Take any carbon out of the filters first.
    Introduce the medication directly into the tank.
    250mg per 38 litres (10 gallons).
    Treat every second day for 3 treatments, initially preceded by a 30% water change.
    If the problem persists, take a 3 day break from treatment and start again.
    Best not to treat for more than a total of 6 treatments.
    I treat until all the fish are eating. Sometimes you only need to treat for one or two days.
    At end of each 3 treatments do a 30% water change
    Metronidazole does not affect the bacteria in your filters.
    Furan-2 Regime

    Don’t treat invertebrates.
    Take any carbon out of the filters first.
    Introduce the medication directly into the tank.
    1 capsule per 38 litres (10 gallons).
    Treat daily for 4 treatments, initially preceded by a 30% water change. Do a 30% water change every second day preceding treatment.
    If the problem persists, take a 3 day break from treatment and start again.
    Best not to treat for more than a total of 8 treatments.
    I treat until all the fish are eating, or a minimum of 3 treatments.
    At end of treatment do a 30% water change
    Furan-2 does not affect the bacteria in your filters.
    Combined Regime

    I have used Furan-2 and Metronidazole together to good effect.
    I use the same regime as above but do water changes every second day.
     

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